AUTUMN ON THE WINDOWSILL IN 2015

I brought this snake plant, plus a few others in from their summer sojourn out on the shelf in the garden.  First I brought them to the sink where I cleaned off their leaves, the soil (OK...I didn't wash the soil, I got rid of plant debris-like leaves!), and, of course, the pot.  Once everything looked fresh and free of any unwanted critters, I brought them upstairs and put them on their respective shelves and windowsills.  It's good to have them back.  Everything looked a bit bare without them.

Here is the Autumn Care calendar that I generated last year.  I'll see if I can get a few more things added there, but if not, this works just as well this year as last!

HUMIDITY and your plants

•  Remember that humidity drops when the heat goes on!
• Most indoor plants are tropical and NEED humidity.
• If you don't have a mister-get one and use it occasionally.  You do need to be careful not to overdo this because mold and mildew can become a problem. 
• You can also put the plants on a dish with pebbles in the bottom.  Add water, being sure to have the pots above the water level.
• The same thing can be accomplished by standing a vase of water right by the plants.  As the water vaporizes, it will humidify the plants.
• NEVER mist an African Violet.  Those hairy leaves will NOT like it at all!!!
• Keep the leaves of your plants shiny and clean (Again-NOT African Violets).  The dust that accumulates on leaves will block the pores, stopping them from absorbing that needed humidity.

TEMPERATURE and your plants

• If it get's below 60* (F) African Violets will stop blooming.
• Poinsettias and Christmas Cactus need temperatures between 60*-75* (F) if possible.
• Cool nights will force dormancy, so don't expect much activity if it pretty cool in your home.
• Avoid drafts for all your plants (especially COOL drafts)

LIGHT and your plants 

• The angle of sunlight shifts in the autumn, so be sure to give lots of light.  
• Turn your plants so they don't begin to lean toward the light.
• Poinsettias and Christmas Cactus need 14 hours of darkness every day beginning in October in order to have bloom by Christmas.

WATERING your plants 

• Plants do not need as much water since life has slowed considerably, so cut back on watering!
• Always check soil before watering.  If it feels moist or damp, resist!
• Never allow your plants to sit in water.  The roots need air as well as water.  If the soil is wet at all times, no air gets in and your plant will be weakened.  This may lead to disease or insect infestation due to it's frailty.
• Another way to check whether the plants need water is to lift the pot.  If it feels heavy-don't water; on the other hand if it feels quite light-give it a drink!
• It's possible a particular plant won't need to be watered more than once or twice a month.
• Try to use air temperature water.  Plants don't like a cold bath any more than we do!
• A good way to deal with the temperature of the water is to place water in your watering can and let it just sit until the plant needs water.  That will also allow any harmful chemicals (like chlorine) to dissipate.
• MISTING is a refreshing boost for most of your plants, except for African Violets whose leaves must stay dry at all costs.  If they get wet, they'll brown.

FERTILIZER and your plants

• You can lightly fertilize any flowering plants.
• STOP fertilizing other plants!  The plants are struggling just to stay alive in this difficult season.  Adding fertilizer at this time is rather like spurring on a tired horse in the desert!  Fertilizing at the wrong time can actually kill the plant.  So resist.

SOIL and those indoor plants

• If the soil gets crusted, you can break that up gently with a fork.
• For larger plants you can scrape off the top layer and discard, replacing it with fresh potting soil.

OTHER THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

• You may receive plants as gifts during the holidays.  Enjoy them, but don't be discouraged if they die.  Most of these plants are considered TEMPORARY and are expected to die off after a few months.  If you want to work at keeping them, go for it, but don't be discouraged if they don't make it.
• Insects and disease strike most plants at some point.  As a gardener, don't become discouraged.  A few little bugs can often be picked off before trouble starts.  An infestation, on the other hand could spell trouble for ALL your plants if it get's out of control  If you think that's happened, and treatment doesn't work?  THROW them out in the garbage!
• Have you re-potted your plant lately?  Most plants will benefit from a re-potting every other year or so.  If your plant seems sickly looking, or crowded, try re-potting.  That will often work miracles!
• Remember to choose your plants wisely (if YOU are the one getting them).  If you get a LOT of sunshine, don't pick a plant that loves shade, or vice versa.
• The best kind of watering pot, or can, is one with a long skinny spout.  It can reach in-between stems and leaves to do it's watering without dousing the entire table where your plant stands.
• Have a tray or dish under your plants that is IMPERVIOUS to water.  You don't want to have rings on your furniture or window sills.  ALWAYS check the bottoms of those trays or saucers.  If they are unglazed...DON'T use them!

SUMMER ON THE WINDOWSILL

When summer begins, things tend to change a bit on the windowsill.  The sun gets brighter.  You might open some windows or doors, creating drafts. If you have it, air conditioning will complicate things no end!  All this heat and circulating air will dry out your plants much quicker than usual.  So, here are some things to consider as summer presents itself.

HUMIDITY AND/OR WATERING OF YOUR PLANTS

• My plants always enjoy a vacation...just like me.  If you have a sheltered spot outside, under a tree or a shrub; sometimes even cuddling your indoor plants within some larger perennials that create shade; it might be an ideal spot where you can sink the indoor plant pot into the soil.  By sinking the pot in the soil, it does not dry out as quickly.  When it rains the pot will allow the plant to absorb water either right through the terra-cotta (clay) or through the holes in the bottom of the pot.  When it's time for the plant to come back inside you just have to be careful to clean the pot of all the soil that will be clinging to it.  You also want to make a thorough examination of the plant itself to be sure you haven't got any insect hitch-hikers!
• Usually more light will spur more growth.  That means your plants will probably require more water.  If you used to water every 5 days, you may need to do it every 2 or 3 days now.  Check the soil.
• Avoid having the plant too close to the air conditioner.  Not only will it dry out quicker, it may actually be much too cold for plants that are normally tropical.
• Remember that plants "transpire" meaning that they are constantly losing water through their leaves.
• If they look droopy" get them some water NOW!

ROOM TEMPERATURE AND YOUR PLANTS

• Any temperature that you find comfortable will probably be just perfect for your plants as well.  They are happy when the temperature drops a bit at night also.
  

FERTILIZING YOUR PLANTS

• Plants go on a growing spree in the summer when the temperatures are higher.  That means they would appreciate a little extra boost of nutrition, in the form of plant fertilizer.
• When trying to find the proper fertilizer...read the label!  Here is a website that does a good job of describing what you need to do, when and how!

SOIL AND YOUR PLANTS

• Since you can do this chore outside, it is so much easier to re-pot your plants in the summer.  
• Use good potting soil.  Do NOT use soil from the garden outside.  It is often full of things you don't want in the house...or eating the roots of your plants.  Not only that, potting soil usually has some fertilizer "built in".
• When re-potting remember to leave enough space at the top so you can water the plant easily.

"A YEAR IN MY NEW ENGLAND GARDEN"

It has finally been accomplished!  I have published my book!
It is called, "A YEAR IN MY NEW ENGLAND GARDEN".  It is a collection of gardening vignettes, but more importantly it lists gardening chores for those living in gardening zones 3-7.  It should be a fun book to read, and offer some very timely suggestions about what you need to do in your garden and WHEN!
It is in print form right now and will shortly be available in an e-book version as well.   To find it, go to this link:  https://www.createspace.com/5092026
I hope you will enjoy it.  It was truly a long and careful labor.   I think it will help you avoid some gardening bloopers!

A BOOK IN MY FUTURE!

I've done it!  I've 'pulled the trigger', as the saying goes!
For quite a few years, I've been adding, correcting, changing, getting discouraged, and encouraged.  Mostly, I've procrastinated!  But, all that is changing now.  I've got the manuscript pretty much all done.  I've submitted it to Create Space, the self publishing arm of Amazon, and now it's a matter of just cleaning up the last messy details.  When that's done, there will be a book for purchase!
It will more than likely be called, "A YEAR IN MY NEW ENGLAND GARDEN".  It is a collection of gardening vignettes, along with a monthly calendar of chores for the gardener.  It tells you what to do and when.  I share successes and failures, joys and disappointments, tips for success, as well as tips that will (hopefully) keep you from struggling in your New England Garden.  At the end, it will also contain a section on simple gardening terms for the beginning gardener.
Many of you, my blog readers, are from the Pacific Northwest, where I now live.  However, you probably have family and friends in gardening zones 3-7.  Those zone numbers are what really matter, and is the general area of all of New England, but it really encompasses a huge area of the United States, so the book definitely does apply to gardens outside of New England! I just need to be sure that folks do not buy the book expecting gardening help for their Florida garden!  (Try clicking on that link about gardening zones and see who might qualify!!!)
I will keep the cost of the book below $10.00, so it's affordable.  I'd love to have it be something folks might include in a Christmas stocking, as a hostess gift or just to present to a gardener in their lives.
I will let you know when the date for actual publication occurs.  I hope to set it up so perhaps the price will be greatly reduced for a week or so.
I also hope to produce it as an eBook.  An eBook will not be too practical for hauling into the garden, but might be an inexpensive way for you to decide whether it's something in which you are interested.

AUTUMN ON THE WINDOWSILL

As I start this Indoor Gardening calendar, I realize the boundaries are pretty "blurred".  It's hard to say in September you do this, and in October you do that.  So, I will break this down into SEASONS instead.  I think that will work better.  Let me know if you disagree, and I'll try to narrow it down more.
I will add to this list as I think of other things.  I will re-post every season with the updated calendar, so just because you've read it here before, doesn't say it's current!

Anyway, here we go for AUTUMN and your indoor plants!

HUMIDITY and your plants

•  Remember that humidity drops when the heat goes on!
• Most indoor plants are tropical and NEED humidity.
• If you don't have a mister-get one and use it occasionally.  You do need to be careful not to overdo this because mold and mildew can become a problem. 
• You can also put the plants on a dish with pebbles in the bottom.  Add water, being sure to have the pots above the water level.
• The same thing can be accomplished by standing a vase of water right by the plants.  As the water vaporizes, it will humidify the plants.
• NEVER mist an African Violet.  Those hairy leaves will NOT like it at all!!!
• Keep the leaves of your plants shiny and clean (Again-NOT African Violets).  The dust that accumulates on leaves will block the pores, stopping them from absorbing that needed humidity.

TEMPERATURE and your plants

• If it get's below 60* (F) African Violets will stop blooming.
• Poinsettias and Christmas Cactus need temperatures between 60*-75* (F) if possible.
• Cool nights will force dormancy, so don't expect much activity if it pretty cool in your home.
• Avoid drafts for all your plants (especially COOL drafts)

LIGHT and your plants 

• The angle of sunlight shifts in the autumn, so be sure to give lots of light.  
• Turn your plants so they don't begin to lean toward the light.
• Poinsettias and Christmas Cactus need 14 hours of darkness every day beginning in October in order to have bloom by Christmas.

WATERING your plants 

• Plants do not need as much water since life has slowed considerably, so cut back on watering!
• Always check soil before watering.  If it feels moist or damp, resist!
• Never allow your plants to sit in water.  The roots need air as well as water.  If the soil is wet at all times, no air gets in and your plant will be weakened.  This may lead to disease or insect infestation due to it's frailty.
• Another way to check whether the plants need water is to lift the pot.  If it feels heavy-don't water; on the other hand if it feels quite light-give it a drink!
• It's possible a particular plant won't need to be watered more than once or twice a month.
• Try to use air temperature water.  Plants don't like a cold bath any more than we do!
• A good way to deal with the temperature of the water is to place water in your watering can and let it just sit until the plant needs water.  That will also allow any harmful chemicals (like chlorine) to dissipate.
• MISTING is a refreshing boost for most of your plants, except for African Violets whose leaves must stay dry at all costs.  If they get wet, they'll brown.

FERTILIZER and your plants

• You can lightly fertilize any flowering plants.
• STOP fertilizing other plants!  The plants are struggling just to stay alive in this difficult season.  Adding fertilizer at this time is rather like spurring on a tired horse in the desert!  Fertilizing at the wrong time can actually kill the plant.  So resist.

SOIL and those indoor plants

• If the soil gets crusted, you can break that up gently with a fork.
• For larger plants you can scrape off the top layer and discard, replacing it with fresh potting soil.

OTHER THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

• You may receive plants as gifts during the holidays.  Enjoy them, but don't be discouraged if they die.  Most of these plants are considered TEMPORARY and are expected to die off after a few months.  If you want to work at keeping them, go for it, but don't be discouraged if they don't make it.
• Insects and disease strike most plants at some point.  As a gardener, don't become discouraged.  A few little bugs can often be picked off before trouble starts.  An infestation, on the other hand could spell trouble for ALL your plants if it get's out of control  If you think that's happened, and treatment doesn't work?  THROW them out in the garbage!
• Have you re-potted your plant lately?  Most plants will benefit from a re-potting every other year or so.  If your plant seems sickly looking, or crowded, try re-potting.  That will often work miracles!
• Remember to choose your plants wisely (if YOU are the one getting them).  If you get a LOT of sunshine, don't pick a plant that loves shade, or vice versa.
• The best kind of watering pot, or can, is one with a long skinny spout.  It can reach in-between stems and leaves to do it's watering without dousing the entire table where your plant stands.
• Have a tray or dish under your plants that is IMPERVIOUS to water.  You don't want to have rings on your furniture or window sills.  ALWAYS check the bottoms of those trays or saucers.  If they are unglazed...DON'T use them!

A SEPTEMBER CALENDAR FOR INDOOR PLANTS

I am starting this from scratch, so it will take awhile to get really useful...but, I've got to start SOMEWHERE!  So, Here goes:

SEPTEMBER CHORES FOR INDOOR PLANTS

• Start preparing your indoor plants to come back inside, being sure they are in before frost. You need to be sure they don't have insects hiding anywhere. You also want to clean off the pots, especially if they were sunken into the soil for their summer sojourn!
• It's time to put your Amaryllis to sleep!  Check my blog entry on this wonderful plant at my Transplanted Gardener site.  It will help you see the entire progression of an amaryllis year, including the September "piece".
• Poinsettias should now be put in their dark corner for at least 16 hours each day in order to set up their bracts to be colorful by Christmas time.
• Just a note here about fertilizing: Most of our houseplants have their major growth spurts during the spring so giving them a monthly fertilization at that time will be very helpful.  Generally during the fall and winter they just kind of "hang in there" so I'd lay off the fertilizer during that time.
  
  
  As you can see, this is going to be a painfully slow process.  I have attempted to use the internet to find additions, but it's all about schedules for OUTDOOR gardeners.  So, this may be a first!  Keep tuned!
  I hope you'll come visit.  Do check out my other blog called: A Transplanted Gardener.  I post about both indoor and outdoor gardening in Seattle, WA.  It is mostly about the community I live in, but it would apply to most anyone!